The following is a basic wardrobe for a young woman (or girl) in the 1810s through early 1820s. Most of these garments are based on original research or extant pieces in museum. This is a general everyday clothing guideline.
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| A very wrinkled shift from the Stephenson House wardrobe. Made from Kannik's Korner shift pattern. |
Shift – A girl’s or woman’s loose-fitting, basic undergarment. Elvira
probably owned several shifts because she wore one next to her skin every day.
Shifts helped to protect outer garments from sweat and body soil, and were
laundered frequently. They were made of linen, muslin, light-weight wool, or
linsey woolsey.
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| Reproduction corset from an extant garment. This corset was worn by a prepubescent girl. |
Stays or Corset – Stays were a close fitting undergarment that enclosed the wearer’s torso. They were stiffened with whalebone or cording during the early 1800s. Some stays laced closed in the front, while others laced at the back. They were a foundation garment that provided support to the outer clothes, and also helped the wearer maintain good posture. Stays were worn by women, girls, and young children.
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| Bodice petticoat. |
Petticoat – A petticoat is similar to what we call a skirt. It could be worn
with a working jacket, called a short gown (short, loose, T-shaped jacket with
a drawstring at the waist), or under a full gown. Because women’s styles were
high-waisted in the early 1800s, petticoats would have needed a bodice or
suspenders to keep them at the fashionable waistline. Elvira might have worn a
corded petticoat under some of her gowns to give her skirts a bell shape. She
also might have worn a quilted petticoat in the winter for warmth.
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| Betsey from the Stephenson House wardrobe. |
Betsey – A Betsey was a shaped piece of fine linen, muslin, or lace, worn
by women and girls over the neck and shoulders to fill in a low-cut neckline.
This garment is sometimes called a chemisette, tucker, or dickey.
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| Reproduction gown of an original owned by the Missouri Historical Society. |
Gown – In the early 19th century fashionable gowns were high-waisted,
full-length dresses. The bodice (or top) was short and did not sit at the
natural waist, but under the bust. Some gowns fastened at the back, while
others closed in front. There were different ways to close a gown: simple
drawstrings, hooks and eyes, buttons, or straight pins. Gowns were made of
silk, cotton, linen, or light-weight wool. White would have been a very
fashionable color for a young lady, but printed cottons were also very popular.
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| Yellow spencer over a muslin gown. |
Spencer – A spencer was a short, close-fitting jacket worn over the bodice
of a gown. Made of wool, cotton, muslin, or silk.
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| Red wool cloak. |
Cloak – A simple, unfitted wrap for cold weather in the late 18th and
early 19th centuries. Cloaks usually extended from the neck to the knees.
Elvira would have worn a cloak with a bonnet and gloves. Cloaks were usually
made of heavy wool, but cotton and silk were also used. Red was very popular.
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| Clocked stockings (left) and plain stockings. |
Stockings - Stockings were close-fitting coverings for the foot and lower
leg, similar to modern knee socks. Stockings were knitted by hand or on
professional knitting machines. Made of silk or cotton thread, and also wool
yarn.
Pelisse – A high-waisted coat worn by women and girls in the early 19th
century. Made of cotton, muslin, silk, linen, or wool. (Not pictured)
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| Two bonnets from the Stephenson House wardrobe. |
Bonnet – A head covering that framed the face and usually tied under the
chin. Made of silk, woven straw/wheat, or wool.
Mitts or
Mittens – Mitts were elbow-length, fingerless gloves
made of linen or silk. They could be sewn from woven cloth, or knitted. Mitts
helped keep the wearer warm in winter and protected skin from sun in summer.
Mitts also protected the wearer from abrasions during work. (Not Pictured)
