Sewing a Theorem Painted Reticule

A couple months back, the Stephenson House offered a two-day workshop on painting velvet theorems then turning them into period-style reticules. I'd wanted to learn this stenciling technique for several years. House volunteer and local artist, Janice Camren taught the theorem portion of the workshop while I instructed the sewing of a period-style reticule.

I looked through several museum inventories for inspiration on what type of reticule would typically feature a theorem painting. There was a wide range of shapes and styles. Ultimately, I settled on what I hoped would be a simple bag construction since the workshop participants had varying levels of sewing skills, plus we wanted to be able to complete (or come close) the reticule in an afternoon.

This technique was very easy to learn. Supplies included a piece of 12x12 velvet, oil paints, stencil brushes, matt board, painters tape, stencils, paint knife, and paper towels.

Oil paint sticks made a lot less mess than traditional oil paints and dried very quickly.

One of the paintings completed during the first day of the workshop. Participants picked from four different stencil designs; birds, fruit, flowers, and moths. 

Each painting was completely unique.

The workshop participants, minus me, showing off their lovely theorems.

Once the theorems were dry the sewing could begin. As mentioned above, I decided a simple bag reticule would be the easiest for everyone to sew and very period-appropriate. Supplies needed to complete this project include:

• 2 - 12 x 12 velvet pieces (one with the painting on it and one for the back)
• 1 - 13.5” (long)  x 12” (wide) piece of silk cut on a fold (making it 27" long x 12" wide)
• thread (either matching the silk or in a complementary color)
• sewing machine (optional)
• fabric scissors
• long sewing ruler
• disappearing fabric marker
• pins
• iron and ironing board
• ribbon for drawcord and something to pull it through casings

Step 1. Place the velvet back and front pieces right sides together. Pin the sides and bottoms together. Sew ½” seam around sides and bottom edges. Leave top edge unsewn. If you have a design on the front panel, be sure it is in the correct location before sewing.

Trim seam allowance to 3/8”, clip corners, and press seam open. A sewing ham will make this easier but is not necessary.

Turn velvet bag right-side out.

Front and back velvet piece pinned together.  Leave the top section open.

Trim the side and bottom seams to 3/8".

Trim the corners.

Press the seams open.

Turn the bag right sides out.

Step 2. Fold the silk lining piece in half (right-sides together) and pin the sides. The bottom of the bag is cut on the fold so it will not need to be sewn. Leave the top of the bag open. Sew a ½” seam down both sides of the bag between the marks. A 1 1/4” section at the top of both sides will be left unsewn, as well as, a 2” section on one of the sides (to be used to turn the bag right-side-out in a later step). Press seams open.

NOTE: If this piece was laid out flat it would measure 27" (long) x 12" wide. When the piece is folded in half it measures 13.5" (long) x 12" (wide). The silk lining is longer then the velvet outer bag. 

Sides are pinned and ready to sew. The bottom is on the fold. Leave a 1 1/4" section unsewn on both top sections as well as a 2" section on one side close to the bottom of the bag. 

Step 3. Press the unsewn sections open too. The photo below shows one of the 1 ¼” sections at the top. A portion of this open section will become the opening for the drawcords later. In Step 5, they will need to be butted up against each other (as if they were sewn) and pinned down.

1 1/4" opening at top edge. There should be two; one on each side of the top.

Step 4. Tassels can now be added to the corners on the outer velvet bag. You can either make your own (like I did) or purchase readymade. Thread one of the long top threads into a needle with a larger eye. Run the thread through the corner of the velvet bag to the inside. Do the same with the other top thread. Tie to the two threads together on the inside of the velvet bag. Repeat with the second tassel and corner.

Tassels I made but store-bought would work just as well.

Thread one of the tassel's top threads through a large eye needle and run it through the corner of the bag to the inside.

Thread the second top tassel through the corner to the inside of the bag.

Tie the two threads together on the inside of the bag.

Finished tassel. Now repeat with the other side.

Step 5. Now take the velvet bag (right-side-out) and slid it into the silk lining bag (the wrong side out)…the bags will be right-sides together. Match the top edges and side seams then pin in place. Sew a 3/8” seam all around the top.

Reminder: the top 1 ¼” of the silk bag sides were not sewn but left open. When you pressed the side seam open in Step 3 it mimicked the fold of the sewn seam. Be sure to fold this portion of the seam back (mimicking the sewn side seam) then butt the two edges together when pinning the tops and sew over them when stitching the top edges together..  

Step 6. Once the top edge is sewn all the way around, pull the velvet bag out of the silk lining. It should look like the image below. Wrong sides are out. Press the top edges (you just stitched) toward the velvet bag section.

Step 7. Time to turn the bags right-side out. Using the 2” unsewn side seam, turn the bags. Once turned you can slip-stitch the 2” hole closed.

2" opening at the bottom is now sewn closed.

Step 8. Now comes the tricky part. The lining bag is longer than the velvet bag. It was done this way so you will have a pretty silk top on the reticule once it’s finished.

Insert the silk lining into the velvet bag, matching up the inside corners. The easiest way to do this is to start sliding the silk inside while placing your index finger in the corner of the lining. Keep your index finger in the silk corner and match it to the velvet corner. Pull gently on the silk lining with your other hand to remove any bunching on the inside. Pin the corner on the outside of the bag (catching all the layers). See the photo below. Repeat with the other corner. Slide your finger along the lining bottom, being sure that the lining is touching the bottom of the velvet section, pin it in place too. Also, be sure to match up the side seams. All of this may take some finessing, but you want to be sure the lining is smooth on the inside with about 1 ½”-2” (depending on the length of your lining silk) protruding out the top of the bag. Everything should be laying smooth. If it’s not smooth, then unpin it and reposition everything.

Once smooth and you’re happy with it, pin the velvet and lining (only two layers per side…not all four together) together all the way around the bag about 1” below the top seam (see second photo below).  Pin the silk top too. All layers must continue to lay smooth with no twisting or bunching.

Pins are holding the bottom lining and outer bag together securely.

This is how the top of the bags should look once they're smoothed and pinned together. 

Step 9. Check that the interior seam, where the silk and velvet join, (Step 6) is still laying pressed toward the velvet body. If it’s not, then manipulate it through the layers with your fingers back into position and pin it in place. Once this seam is pinned, remove the pins placed below the seam (in the previous step) since they were only there to keep everything smooth up to this point.

  

Step 10. Sew a spaced running stitch through the lining in the ‘ditch’ of the seam. Try not to catch the velvet portion. This stitching will not be visible from the outside. It will also hold the velvet/silk seam toward the body (you don’t want it slipping upward). This will create the bottom seam for the drawcord channel.

Step 11. On the inside of the top silk section, mark a 1/2 “ line from the top edge. Go all the way around the top edge.  This measurement should match up with the side seam openings from Step 5. Use a running stitch to create the top seam for the drawcord channel.

Step 12. Insert your drawcords. I used two ribbons, the same length, for this. Since reticules were not usually worn slung over the shoulder, keep the ribbons short enough that if you held them in your hand the bag would not touch the floor.

Starting at one drawcord opening, run one length of ribbon all the way around the drawcord channel then out the same hole you started at. Tie the ribbon to its end. Repeat with the other opening.

And you're done! 

Wallpaper Boxes

Wallpaper boxes would have made excellent, as well as decorative storage containers in the early 19th century. Over the years, I have taught this project many times to children attending summer camps at the 1820 Col. Benjamin Stephenson House. It's an easy project to make on a small or large scale. You're only limited by the size of your wallpaper pieces. The photo above shows two small boxes made during Mrs. Lucy's Academy for Young Ladies in 2018. The larger box below was constructed several years ago for display in the master bedroom at the historic home.

Made from reproduction early 19th-century wallpaper and lined in photocopies of an 1819 Edwardsville newspaper. It's large enough to store a man's top hat inside.

Supplies:

·         Wallpaper sample books

·         Small cardboard boxes (available at Michaels, JoAnn Fabrics, Hobby Lobby)

·         Pencil

·         Ruler

·         Flour Paste (recipe at end of the post)

·         Small paint brushes

·         Scissors

·         Paper towels

A simple cardboard box and wallpaper samples.

Step 1. Choose the sheet of wallpaper you will be using. Pick a pattern that works well with the shape of your box. Think about how the wallpaper design can be used to highlight the box shape (e.g. trim around lid, center design on the lid, the body of the box). Be sure that there is enough of the sheet to completely cover your box. If necessary, pick another sheet to compliment the first one.

Step 2. On the wrong side of your wallpaper lay the box on its side with the bottom edge lined up with the straight edge of the paper. Take a pencil and mark the top edge of the box on the paper. It's hard to see in the photo below but there is a pencil line directly below the right edge of the box. 

You will also want to get an idea of how long of a strip you will need for the body. An easy way to do this is while your box is still in this position, mark the side edge of the paper on the box then roll the box until the mark comes back in contact with the paper. You’ll want to have at least ¼” overlap of paper for the side seam.

The pencil mark on the paper shows the top edge of the box.

Step 3.  Take your ruler and measure the distance from the bottom edge of the wallpaper to the pencil mark indicating the top edge of your box. Use this measurement to mark the width of your box the entire length of your wallpaper sheet then draw a straight line connecting your marks on the top edge.

Now measure ½” from your top edge (straight line) to create the cutline.

This image shows the width from the bottom edge to the top edge with 1/2" overlap at the top. The 1/2" overlap will be cut and folded in Step 4-6.

Box body wallpaper piece cut out.

Step 4.  On the top edge make cuts into the ½” allowance stopping about 2/16” from the top edge pencil line. Try not to cut all the way to the pencil line. This edge will roll over the top of your box edge to the inside. By leaving 2/16” uncut, you’ll have a nice smooth edge on the top of your box body.

Step 5. Coat your box body piece evenly with flour paste. Be sure to cover the entire piece.

Step 6. Lining up the bottom edges of the box and paper, slowly work the paper around the body of the box. There should be at least a ¼” seam overlap on the side of the box. Once the body is on, start folding over the top edges ½” allowance. If your glue has started to dry out just add a little more. To ensure the paper adheres to the box, gently work it with your fingers. If edges are not adhering, add a little more glue. Set the body aside to dry.

Here you can see the overlap of wallpaper along the side seam.

The top edge is coated with paste and being smoothed over to the inside of the box.

The top edge is now completely adhered to the inside of the box.

Step 7. Place your lid, on the wrong side of the wallpaper piece, on its side. Match the bottom or top edge of the lid to the straight edge of the wallpaper. Mark the side width of the lid on the wallpaper with a pencil. You will also want to get an idea of how long of a strip you will need for the side of the lid. An easy way to do this is while your lid is still in this position, mark the side edge of the paper on the box then roll the box until the mark comes back in contact with the paper. You’ll want to have at least ¼” overlap for the side seam.

Pencil mark indicating the top of the lid is rather hard to see in this photo.

Step 8. Take your ruler and measure the distance from the straight edge of the wallpaper to the pencil mark indicating the width of your lid. Use this measurement to mark the width of the lid the entire length of your wallpaper sheet.  Draw a straight line connecting your marks.

Now measure ½” from your straight line to create the cut line. This is the same as you did when measuring the body piece.

Add 1/2" to the width of the lid.

Step 9. In the ½” allowance, make cuts in the wallpaper stopping about 2/16” from the pencil line. Try not to cut all the way to the pencil line. This edge will roll over the bottom of the lid to the inside. By leaving 2/16” uncut, you’ll have a nice smooth edge on the bottom of your lid.

Set this piece aside for now. It will be added last.

Step 10.  Place the lid topside down on to the wrong side of the wallpaper. Draw a circle around the lid. Add ¼” -½” to this line all the way around. I would recommend the ½” since it will give you a little more to work with but if you don’t have enough wallpaper (as seen here) then a ¼” will do if you’re careful.

Step 11. As with the box body, make small cuts all the way around the pieces ½” allowance. Be sure not to cut all the way to the line. Leave 2/16” uncut for a smooth finished edge. Once you’ve created all the cuts then brush on the flour paste.

   

  

Step 12.  Place the lid onto the pattern piece being sure to keep the lid within the penciled circle. Start folding over the cut edge and smoothing it down. Again, work the surface with your fingers, smoothing and rubbing so the paper adheres to the cardboard. If necessary, add more paste.

Step 13. Coat your lid side piece evenly with flour paste. Be sure to cover the entire piece. Lining up the bottom edges of the lid and paper, slowly work the paper around the side of the lib. There should be at least a ¼” seam overlap on the side of the box. Once the side piece is on, start folding over the bottom edge’s ½” allowance. If your glue has started to dry out just add a little more. To ensure the paper adheres to the box, gently work it with your hands. If edges are not adhering, add a little more glue.

Side Note: In the event, you measured the length of the lid side wrong (like I did), you can easily add a piece to fill it in. Just cut it the same width as the lid side piece and 1/2” longer so you have a small overlap on each side.

I didn't measure correctly so the edge piece was too small.

The problem solved by adding a patch. The pattern of the wallpaper is busy enough to be unnoticeable.

Bookbinding Paste (historical recipe)

Use 1 part four (not self-rising) to 5 parts water. Heat just to simmer, stirring constantly (use a whisk like you're making a cream sauce). Add more water if necessary to get a thick cream/thin pudding consistency. DO NOT BOIL!! Cook until transparent. This paste will have a very strong bond.